Colours ran wild and silhouettes softened at Paris Men’s Fashion Week, which ends Sunday, as designers brought a rare breath of fresh air to a gloomy fashion climate.<\/p>\n
Despite the heavy news cycle and economic turbulence affecting the luxury sector, this Fashion Week was a “shot of creativity that felt incredibly good”, Alice Feillard, men’s buying director at Galeries Lafayette, told AFP.<\/p>\n
The spring-summer 2026 season “is much more creative than the previous ones, which were a bit duller”, said Adrien Communier, the fashion editor at GQ France.<\/p>\n
Both experts observed a more relaxed vibe, with Feillard pointing to “good humour” and “optimism”, while Communier noted a “lighter mood”.<\/p>\n
“With so many debuts, there was a sense of renewal. And so, I found that people were more curious,” he added.<\/p>\n
After a notable women’s show in March, Julian Klausner made waves Thursday with his first menswear show for Dries Van Noten, while Jonathan Anderson’s long-awaited debut at Dior drew applause on Friday.<\/p>\n
A renewed burst of creativity lit up the runways, most visibly through bold colour choices. Brown tones and pastels made way for a richer, more saturated palette for next summer.<\/p>\n
Saint Laurent opened the week with violet, navy, orange and moss green, while Pharrell Williams at Louis Vuitton channelled Indian motifs and hues.<\/p>\n
Dries Van Noten made a splash with bold fuchsia and blood red, while Kenzo exploded with candy pink, aquatic blue and chick yellow.<\/p>\n
– ‘nonchalant elegance’ –<\/p>\n
Dior Homme took a more restrained approach, showcasing rich tones like a deep forest green on structured pieces.<\/p>\n
The tones sometimes appeared as prints — tiger at Kenzo, childlike safari at Louis Vuitton and floral at Dior.<\/p>\n
At Comme des Garcons Plus, prints leaned into pop-style 1970s geometry — a look also seen at Amiri, Saint Laurent and Junya Watanabe, who embraced flared trousers.<\/p>\n
Stripes were ubiquitous but subtle, adding detail without overwhelming.<\/p>\n
Designers leaned into fluidity with flared trousers, long jackets, open shirts and an ongoing pyjama trend.<\/p>\n
“There’s a sort of nonchalant elegance in having a very fluid yet thoughtfully designed silhouette,” Communier said.<\/p>\n
Last season’s neo-dandy look is now much more relaxed.<\/p>\n
“Tailoring is still omnipresent in the collections, but it’s becoming more fluid. There’s still formality, but it’s far more relaxed and remains very elegant,” said Feillard.<\/p>\n
Bags were omnipresent, from clutch to shoulder, styled for both casual outings and evening occasions.<\/p>\n
Finally, flip-flops made a major comeback, seen at Officine Generale, Auralee and even Hermes, “worn in an almost formal way”, said Communier. A perfect example of relaxed chic.<\/p>\n
mdv\/srg\/gv\/tc<\/p>\n
\u00a9 Agence France-Presse<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
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